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Thursday
Nov142013

Just Published Champagne reviews by Josh Raynolds in Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

R. Dumont & Fils

By Josh Raynolds

2005 R. Dumont et Fils Millesime Brut 

($53) (60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir):  Vivid yellow.  Smoky orchard fruits and chamomile on the musky, perfumed nose.  Fleshy pear and Meyer lemon flavors tighten up in the mid-palate, picking up bitter quinine and dried fig qualities.  Shows very good energy and lift on the finish, which leaves smoky mineral and brown butter notes behind.  The smooth interplay of richness and vivacity will make this a very flexible Champagne at the table.

90 Points

1998 R. Dumont et Fils Blanc de Noirs Grand Millesime Brut 

($85) Bright gold.  Smoky aromas of poached pear, yellow plum, cherry pit and orange pith, with a subtle floral overtone.  Fleshy and broad on the palate, offering nutty dried orchard fruit flavors and suggestions of buttered toast and musky rhubarb.  Closes spicy and long, with a touch of candied fig and lingering spiciness.

91 Points

 

Jose Michel et Fils

By Josh Raynolds

2005 Jose Michel et Fils Brut Special Club 6 pack 

($75) (a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot meunier, all from the estate's oldest vines):  Bright yellow.  Smoky, penetrating orchard fruit and cherry pit scents are complicated by notes of truffle, chalky minerals and fresh flowers.  Powerful yet lithe on the palate, offering refreshingly bitter pear skin and fresh fig flavors and a brighter suggestion of orange that gains in strength with air.  Finishes on a toasty note, with lingering florality and excellent persistence.  

92 points

 

Perseval-Farge

By Josh Raynolds

2000 Perseval-Farge Millesime Premier Cru Brut 

($79) (made from 60% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir and 10% pinot meunier):  Vivid yellow.  Spicy apple and peach aromas are complemented by deeper notes of buttered toast and anise.  Chewy orchard fruit flavors are braced by a touch of bitter orange pith, showing very good focus.  Picks up a nutty quality on the lingering, toasty finish.

91 Points 

Wine Traditions imports these and The Vine Collective, www.thevinecollective.com distributes them in NY and NJ.

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