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<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>5 Wines to try from Southwestern France</strong></p>
<p><em>The husband-and-wife team of Ed Addiss and Barbara Selig have specialized in importing wines from southwestern France under their Falls Church-based Wine Traditions label, representing family-owned wineries that use environmentally friendly farming to produce wines that reflect individuality and terroir. They give Washington area wine lovers a unique opportunity to explore this region. &mdash; D.M.</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Domaine Brana Ohitza 2010</p>
<p>★★1 / 2</p>
<p>Irouleguy, France, $22</p>
<p>&nbsp;This blend is 80 percent tannat, the rest cabernet franc. Its structure speaks of the mountains (Irouleguy is nestled among the foothills of the Pyrenees), yet the cab franc lends a softness and a Bordeaux sensibility that makes the wine eminently accessible now, while easily worthy of five or six years in your cellar.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Clos Fardet Madiran 2010</p>
<p>&nbsp;★★1 / 2</p>
<p>&nbsp;Madiran, France, $18</p>
<p>Madiran is happily situated to enjoy the cool climatic influence of the Atlantic as well as the warmth from the Mediterranean. Its tannat-based wines are closer in style to those of Virginia: rich, tannic and ripe, with bright red fruit and a dense earthiness to keep the flavors grounded. The Clos Fardet shows dark berry fruit with an appealing stony character.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Domaine du Cros Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2010</p>
<p>&nbsp;★★</p>
<p>&nbsp;Marcillac, France, $18</p>
<p>Made entirely from the fer servadou grape, this is almost nutty, with a roasted character over ripe dark-fruit flavors. There&rsquo;s an appealing liveliness that suggests authenticity and honesty. It tastes as though someone&rsquo;s hands were involved in its production.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Camin Larredya Au Capceu 2010</p>
<p>★★</p>
<p>Jurancon, France, $35</p>
<p>This sweet dessert wine made entirely from the petit manseng grape could be the poor man&rsquo;s Sauternes: rich and honeyed, without the sublime knee-buckling focus, to be sure, but also without the knee-buckling price tag. This is a model for sweet wines from this grape in Virginia. Camin Larredya also makes delicious dry wines from gros manseng and petit manseng at more affordable prices.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Wine Traditions Ltd.:</p>
<p>Available in the District at Cork Market,&nbsp;MacArthur Beverages; on the list at Cork Wine Bar.</p>
<p>Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Whole Foods Market in Arlington,&nbsp;at the Wine Cabinet in Reston; on the list at Bastille in Alexandria.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style="color: #d57b35;">COLUMN</span></p>
&nbsp;
<p><span style="color: #d57b35;"><a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/drink-in-southwest-france/2013/03/18/7f909b24-8c01-11e2-9f54-f3fdd70acad2_story.html"><strong><span style="color: windowtext;">Drink in southwestern France</span></strong></a></span><strong><span style="color: #878787;">&nbsp;</span></strong></p>
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<p>&nbsp;<span style="color: #262626;">Dave McIntyre </span><span style="color: #5b5b5b;">MAR&nbsp;19</span></p>
<p><em><strong>With their combination of history, geography and ethnic culture, the wines are a must for &ldquo;travelers.&rdquo;</strong></em><strong>&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p>Southwest France is a bit off the beaten track, in travel and in wine. When wine lovers go to France &mdash; and by that I mean the French shelves at our local wine store &mdash; we gravitate toward Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne and the Rhone Valley. The hipsters among us long for the Loire, while more old-fashioned enogeeks reach for Alsace. Most of us don&rsquo;t get to the southwest, which is too bad, because the wines can be as delicious as the scenery is spectacular.</p>
<p>So the next time you feel like traveling by corkscrew, ask your retailer to take you to Irouleguy, Fronton, Madiran or Jurancon. You&rsquo;ll taste unfamiliar grapes such as negrette, tannat and fer servadou, reds that produce wine at once perfumed and rugged. Gros and petit manseng produce aromatic whites that range from dry and delicate to unctuously sweet.</p>
<p>These aren&rsquo;t the stylish wines of classed-growth Bordeaux chateaux, nor do they have the sublime luxury of premier cru Burgundy. But they are honest, tasting as though they were grown and produced in a particular place instead of according to a recipe. They are what some people might call &ldquo;weeknight wines,&rdquo; because they are inexpensive and uncomplicated. You don&rsquo;t need to worry about which foods to match with them; almost anything works. They won&rsquo;t take you too far out of your comfort zone. Most are blended with familiar grapes such as cabernet franc, malbec and syrah.</p>
<p>And it&rsquo;s fun to say Irouleguy (ee-ROO-luh-ghee). That appellation name is one of the easier words to pronounce on the labels of <em><strong>the excellent Domaine Brana</strong></em>. The wine names reflect the Basque influence of the region; they include the Ohitza red blend, made from tannat that&rsquo;s tamed with 20 percent cabernet franc.</p>
<p>Exploring southwestern France gives me an excuse to consult my favorite travel primer, &ldquo;<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0062206362?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creativeASIN=0062206362&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;tag=washingtonpost-20#_"><span style="color: windowtext;">Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours</span></a>,&rdquo; by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz (HarperCollins, 2012), more an encyclopedic tome than a pocket travel guide, to be sure.</p>
<p>Tannat, for example, is known for its high tannin (the mouth-puckering, drying factor in red wine), though its name may refer to its dark color. Micro-oxygenation, the modern technique of bubbling small amounts of air into young wine to soften the tannins, was developed in Madiran, the appellation most known for tannat.</p>
<p>Fer servadou, or simply fer, derives from the Latin word for wild, and this grape is the genetic grandparent of carmenere, now popular in Chile. It<em style="font-weight: bold;"> shines at </em><em><strong>Domaine du Cros in Marcillac</strong></em>, an appellation that enjoys climatic influence of both the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Negrette, as its name suggests, is another dark-colored grape, though more aromatic and less brooding than tannat. It is blended successfully with syrah, cabernet sauvignon and malbec at Chateau Bouissel in Fronton. While fer servadou may be native to southwestern France, negrette is thought to have been brought back from the Crusades by the Knights Templar.</p>
<p>If some of these grape names sound familiar, you might be hearing their Virginia accent. Tannat and fer servadou were planted in the 1990s by vintners eager to experiment with grape varieties that could ripen well in Virginia&rsquo;s humid climate and contribute color and tannin to its sometimes pallid red wines. Today they show up in wines produced by Chrysalis, Hillsborough and Fabbioli Cellars in Loudoun County, as well as Delaplane Cellars in Fauquier County and Horton Vineyards in Orange County. Varietally labeled tannat can be quite good in Virginia.</p>
<p>Virginia is also making nice wine from petit manseng, a floral white grape that survives well against humidity and ripens with high acidity and sugar levels. In France, the grape plays a minor supporting role to gros manseng in the white wines of Jurancon. Those range from dry, fruity whites to unctuously sweet dessert wines.</p>
<p>With their combination of history, geography and ethnic culture in the glass, the wines of southwest France are too delicious to leave off your travel itinerary.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Yesterday's release in the April edition of "Revue du Vin de France" : 2003 Sauternes 10 Years Later. Chateau La Clotte-Cazalis ranks once again among the "Classés".</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/3/14/yesterdays-release-in-the-april-edition-of-revue-du-vin-de-f.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/3/14/yesterdays-release-in-the-april-edition-of-revue-du-vin-de-f.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2013-03-14T21:24:27Z</published><updated>2013-03-14T21:24:27Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<div id="_mcePaste"></div>
<div style="font-size: 120%;"><span style="font-size: 110%;">"In blind tastings Chateau La Clotte-Cazalis continues to rank in the middle of the "class&eacute;s", [this time in 5th place], leaving behind not the least renowned of other Sauturnes."</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 120%;"><em>Xavier Lacoste, Owner, Chateau La Clotte-Cazalis</em></div>
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<div></div>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Peter Liem's latest article on Champagne features Pinot Meunier and Jose Michel</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/3/12/peter-liems-latest-article-on-champagne-features-pinot-meuni.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/3/12/peter-liems-latest-article-on-champagne-features-pinot-meuni.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2013-03-12T22:14:07Z</published><updated>2013-03-12T22:14:07Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<div><strong>Meunier Specialists</strong></div>
<div><strong><br /></strong>When thinking of historical specialists of meunier, there are two prominent names that come to mind. The first is&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=1" target="_blank">Jos&eacute; Michel</a>, who has been cultivating vines in the village of Moussy since 1952. Michel has been a longtime champion of the meunier grape, and in the past, his vintage wine was always made of pure meunier. In his cellars, I've tasted old examples going back to the 1940s and 1950s, and these can be extraordinarily fresh and lively, defying the notion that meunier champagnes require early drinking.<br /><br />In the 1970s, Michel began to include some chardonnay in his vintage blends, in an effort to cultivate more overt finesse. This set the precedent for the wines of today: both his Sp&eacute;cial Club and vintage cuv&eacute;es, for example, are always made from a blend of meunier and chardonnay. He stopped making a 100-percent meunier champagne for a number of years, but in the early 2000s, he created a new, non-vintage meunier cuv&eacute;e that my friends and I like to think that we're at least partially responsible for.<br /><br />My friend Brian and I used to visit Michel every year, and we would badger him incessantly about meunier. Brian would always ask, "Why don't you make a 100-percent meunier?" And Michel would just smile and say, "Oh, I used to," and then he'd pull out another old vintage champagne made entirely of meunier that we would invariably go nuts over. Every year it was the same. Finally, in 2005 I was in Bordeaux, and I saw Michel and his wife at VinExpo. He said to me, "Tell your friend I have a new wine for him." The next time we showed up, he presented us with his non-vintage Pinot Meunier, and this wine has since become one of the stars in his portfolio.</div>
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<div>Peter Liem's latest article on Pinot Meunier Champagne&nbsp;</div>
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<img src="http://www.champagneguide.net/uploads/Image/meunier+leaves.jpg" alt="Young growth in meunier vines, Dizy" width="450" height="338" />
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<div>Of Champagne's three major grape varieties, pinot meunier, or simply meunier, as it is commonly called in the region, is clearly the underdog. It accounts for about a third of the region's plantings, yet in terms of perceived nobility, it ranks firmly below chardonnay and pinot noir. It's often planted in marginalized areas, due to its resistance to frost and its ability to produce in vineyards where chardonnay and pinot noir struggle. It is not permitted the designation of&nbsp;<em>grand cru</em>, even if it is grown exclusively in a grand cru village&mdash;because of this, in fact, there is very little meunier grown in grand cru vineyards. Many producers avoid using meunier in their vintage wines, due to its supposed inability to age, and in general, it's often viewed as a sort of rustic country cousin to the finer, more sophisticated varieties of chardonnay and pinot noir.<br /><br />And yet, the last decade has seen an increased interest in meunier, with a growing acceptance of the variety among winemakers. There is no longer a sense of apology among producers when speaking about meunier, and its usefulness in a blend is now much more openly acknowledged. Even more intriguing, for us as consumers, is the marked increase in the number of champagnes made entirely out of meunier, offering us not only a better understanding of the variety, but also a view of how it performs in different terroirs.<br /><br /><strong>A Distinctive Grape</strong><br />Pinot meunier derives its name from the downy white fuzz found on its leaves: in French,<em>meunier</em>&nbsp;means "miller", and this white down makes the leaves appear as if they were dusted with flour. This is most noticeable in the spring, when the growth is just beginning; later in the season, the leaves can be just as green as those of pinot noir. However, the leaves are usually shaped quite differently, as demonstrated by&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=115" target="_blank">Beno&icirc;t Tarlant</a>&nbsp;in the photo below: on the left is pinot noir, with its characteristically round leaf shape, while on the right is a meunier leaf, with deep indentations.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.champagneguide.net/uploads/Image/pinot+leaves.jpg" alt="Leaves of pinot noir and meunier" width="450" height="337" /><br /><br />Another method of telling the two apart is by the shape of the grape clusters, although this can be less reliable, depending upon the individual plant. Pinot noir typically has triangular clusters, with square "shoulders", while meunier clusters are smaller and rounder. In the photo below, pinot noir is on the left, and meunier on the right.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.champagneguide.net/uploads/Image/grapes.jpg" alt="Pinot noir and pinot meunier" width="450" height="338" /><br /><br />While meunier can be found across the Champagne region, there are two areas where it has traditionally been prominent. The more famous of these is the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne west of Epernay, where meunier represents the majority of plantings. Generally speaking, as one travels west from Epernay along the Marne River, the bedrock of chalk gradually sinks deeper below the surface, covered by an increasingly thicker layer of topsoils that can be composed of clays, marls, gravel or sand. Combined with the area's cool, frost-prone microclimates and persistent fog, this can create problems for chardonnay and pinot noir in certain parcels, with the latter in particular struggling to ripen.<br /><br />Meunier, however, readily copes with these adversities. It thrives in clay soils and, since it buds late, it is better positioned to avoid the early spring frosts. When hit by frost, it is hardier and more resistant than either chardonnay or pinot noir are, and even if its buds are destroyed, meunier can generate a second crop of buds, regaining up to 70 percent of the original yield. This gives it a distinct advantage over other varieties, and despite the decline in plantings over recent years (in favor of pinot noir), it's likely that meunier is still the most suitable grape for many terroirs in the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne.<br /><br />The other primary area for meunier in Champagne is in the western portion of the Montagne de Reims, in the so-called Petite Montagne. This is an area that stretches from Gueux in the north to Sermiers in the south, on the western side of the D951, the main road that runs between Epernay and Reims. Some of this area has slowly been converted to pinot noir in recent years, but historically, much of this region was valued for its meunier, particularly the villages north of &Eacute;cueil such as Sacy, Villedommange, Jouy-l&egrave;s-Reims, Coulommes-la-Montagne, Vrigny and Gueux.<br /><br />Here the soils are generally more overtly calcareous than those in the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne, although they are also mixed with marls and sands, and can contain a high proportion of fossils. This results in different characters in the wines from the two regions: in the Petite Montagne, the meunier tends to be firmer and more structured, while the wines of the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne are broader and more ample in build. This varies from one wine to another, depending upon individual parcels and producers, but in general, there are recognizable attributes between the two areas that can be discerned and differentiated.<br /><br />Meunier can offer more forward and ample fruit flavors in its youth than pinot noir or chardonnay do, and for this reason it is most often used in non-vintage blends, to make the young wines more approachable. The specific flavors of the variety can be surprisingly diverse. There are often aromas of bread dough or baked apple, and these can be accompanied by red-fruit notes reminiscent of plums or cherries, while at other times the wines can be notably citrusy, with flavors of orange or grapefruit, sometimes even veering towards notes of tropical fruit in ripe examples.<br /><br />It is generally accepted in Champagne that meunier matures earlier than the other varieties do, lacking the capacity for long aging, and many houses avoid using it in their vintage champagnes. However, there are notable examples to the contrary&mdash;the most frequently cited are undoubtedly the vintage wines of Krug, which possess mythical longevity despite having always included a significant proportion of meunier in their blends. There are even examples of 100-percent meunier champagne that have aged exceptionally well, although these are much more difficult to obtain.<br /><br /><strong>Meunier Specialists</strong><br />When thinking of historical specialists of meunier, there are two prominent names that come to mind. The first is&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=1" target="_blank">Jos&eacute; Michel</a>, who has been cultivating vines in the village of Moussy since 1952. Michel has been a longtime champion of the meunier grape, and in the past, his vintage wine was always made of pure meunier. In his cellars, I've tasted old examples going back to the 1940s and 1950s, and these can be extraordinarily fresh and lively, defying the notion that meunier champagnes require early drinking.<br /><br />In the 1970s, Michel began to include some chardonnay in his vintage blends, in an effort to cultivate more overt finesse. This set the precedent for the wines of today: both his Sp&eacute;cial Club and vintage cuv&eacute;es, for example, are always made from a blend of meunier and chardonnay. He stopped making a 100-percent meunier champagne for a number of years, but in the early 2000s, he created a new, non-vintage meunier cuv&eacute;e that my friends and I like to think that we're at least partially responsible for.<br /><br />My friend Brian and I used to visit Michel every year, and we would badger him incessantly about meunier. Brian would always ask, "Why don't you make a 100-percent meunier?" And Michel would just smile and say, "Oh, I used to," and then he'd pull out another old vintage champagne made entirely of meunier that we would invariably go nuts over. Every year it was the same. Finally, in 2005 I was in Bordeaux, and I saw Michel and his wife at VinExpo. He said to me, "Tell your friend I have a new wine for him." The next time we showed up, he presented us with his non-vintage Pinot Meunier, and this wine has since become one of the stars in his portfolio.<br /><br />Another traditional specialist in meunier was Ren&eacute; Collard, across the river in Reuil, on the right bank of the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne. Collard, who began making wine in 1943, was devoted to organic viticulture long before organic viticulture became fashionable, and his wines, all of which were fermented in barrel without malolactic, were a little controversial: either you loved their rich, chewy depth of flavor or you were put off by their rusticity and their lack of finesse. In his deep underground cellar, he had a tasting room that looked like nothing had been touched for fifty years, and he always had old vintages for sale at very kind prices. Like Michel, he occasionally added chardonnay to his blends, but there were plenty of vintage wines that were 100-percent meunier: the powerful 1990, the chewy 1976 and the burnished, golden 1969, for example, or even the spicy, complex 1985 ros&eacute;. Collard retired in 1995, and passed away in 2009. His grandson Olivier continues to produce champagne at his own estate in Villers-sous-Ch&acirc;tillon, Collard-Picard, but to my knowledge, he doesn't make a pure meunier champagne.<br /><br />While Jos&eacute; Michel and Ren&eacute; Collard were the most renowned of the meunier specialists, there have certainly been other growers who made 100-percent meunier champagnes in the past, but who were smaller and less well-known. For example, in Festigny, in the Vall&eacute;e du Flagot on the left bank of the Marne,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=110" target="_blank">Michel Loriot</a>&nbsp;is highly regarded for his meunier today, and while he grows other grapes as well, he has two cuv&eacute;es that are made entirely of meunier: a richly flavored non-vintage brut and a vintage-dated, single-vineyard Pinot Meunier Vieilles Vignes.<br /><br />Historically, though, the family's estate was planted exclusively with meunier, and all of the wines made by Loriot's father and grandfather were pure meunier, since that's the only grape they had. "In the past," he says, "there was hardly any chardonnay planted here, because people were afraid of frost." Recently, Loriot opened a 1964 vintage champagne for me, made by his grandfather, Germain Loriot. At 49 years of age, it was still fresh and youthful, with a surprisingly pale color and an incredibly vibrant, energetic fragrance. Like Loriot's wines today, it possessed a fine balance between rich depth and subtle finesse, enlivened by a stony, saline minerality.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.champagneguide.net/uploads/Image/1964+loriot.jpg" alt="1964 Germain Loriot" width="450" height="337" /><br /><br /><strong>A Renewed Interest</strong><br />Even as recently as the late-1990s, meunier remained a publicly marginalized grape. It accounted for over a third of the vineyard plantings in Champagne, yet many producers remained reluctant to talk about it, with some even denying that they used it in their blends. At the same time, there were a few growers who were becoming interested in seeing what meunier could do if it were given the proper attention.<br /><br />In Oeuilly, on the left bank of the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne, the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=115" target="_blank">Tarlant</a>&nbsp;family has been growing vines since the seventeenth century. Meunier has long been a staple of this region, and in 1999, Beno&icirc;t Tarlant and his father Jean-Mary selected a special parcel of meunier to bottle separately for the first time, under the label La Vigne d'Or. These are the oldest vines of the estate, planted in the vineyard of Pierre de Bellevue in 1947, and the wine was fermented in barrel and aged under cork rather than capsule.<br /><br />As inspiration for this champagne, Beno&icirc;t Tarlant cites the wines of Ren&eacute; Collard, of whom he was a friend and great admirer. The Tarlants have continued to bottle this wine in later vintages, and have since released the 2002 and 2003, in addition to the inaugural vintage of 1999. La Vigne d'Or is a generous, amply flavored wine, but it's as expressive of place as it is of fruit, demonstrating the broad build and rich aromas typical of vineyards close to the river while also maintaining a taut, focused structure&mdash;this parcel is notably calcareous for the area, and this is reflected in the wine's lively minerality.<br /><br />In an entirely different terroir,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=93" target="_blank">J&eacute;r&ocirc;me Pr&eacute;vost</a>&nbsp;also began to make a meunier champagne around this time, and since then, he has likely done more than anyone else to elevate the stature of this grape. Unlike the Tarlants, who bottled a pure meunier because they could, Pr&eacute;vost bottled meunier because he had to&mdash;it's the only variety planted in his two-hectare vineyard of Les B&eacute;guines in the village of Gueux.<br /><br />Pr&eacute;vost had been working his vines since 1987, when he inherited the parcel from his grandmother, but he sold his grapes each year to the&nbsp;<em>n&eacute;goce</em>. In 1998, his friend&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=141" target="_blank">Anselme Selosse</a>&nbsp;convinced him to begin bottling his own champagne, and he even offered to let Pr&eacute;vost use his facilities in Avize to do so, since Pr&eacute;vost had no cellars of his own. Pr&eacute;vost began producing small quantities of a single cuv&eacute;e, vinified in 450- to 600-liter barrels with indigenous yeasts and bottled without fining, filtering or cold-stabilization.<br /><br />The wine immediately attracted attention among champagne connoisseurs in the know, and soon it seemed that no avant-garde Parisian wine bar was complete without having Pr&eacute;vost on its list. For those who appreciate terroir-expressive, naturally-grown wines, Pr&eacute;vost's Les B&eacute;guines was something of a revelation, and together with growers such as&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=39" target="_blank">David L&eacute;clapart</a>,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=29" target="_blank">Bertrand Gautherot</a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=38" target="_blank">C&eacute;dric Bouchard</a>, Pr&eacute;vost represented a modern genre of Champagne producers who were doing something radically different and entirely new.<br /><br />Les B&eacute;guines spends a relatively short amount of time on its lees, and thus does not qualify to be a vintage-dated champagne, although it always comes from a single year. It's a complex, intensely soil-driven wine, and one that demonstrates a great deal of finesse, with a noticeably finer texture than other meunier champagnes. It also needs several years of post-disgorgement age to show its best: at a recent tasting in New York City, the 2007 (disgorged in 2009) was just beginning to open up and reveal a broader range of aromas, and the 2006 (disgorged in 2008) was generous and inviting, still youthful but fully accessible. In contrast, the 2008, 2009 and 2010 were all significantly more closed, promising greatness yet holding much of their depth and complexity in reserve.<br /><br />In 2007, Pr&eacute;vost made a ros&eacute; champagne for the first time, using a section of vines affected by<em>court-nou&eacute;</em>&nbsp;to make red wine, which he blended into the regular version of Les B&eacute;guines. Called Fac-simile, this is a pungent, vinous ros&eacute;, with concentrated fruit flavors and a taut, rigid structure. Despite being based on the same material, it's a surprisingly different wine than the<em>blanc</em>&nbsp;version is, offering an alternate interpretation of Les B&eacute;guines meunier.<br /><br /><strong>Proliferation</strong><br />Today, there are a number of other growers who have begun bottling 100-percent meunier champagnes, grown in a variety of terroirs. In the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay, close to where Jos&eacute; Michel has his vines,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=103" target="_blank">Laherte Fr&egrave;res</a>&nbsp;makes a soil-expressive, vintage-dated cuv&eacute;e called Les Vignes d'Autrefois, from vines in the villages of Chavot and Mancy that were planted between 1947 and 1964. The first release was from 2004, and Laherte has made it in every vintage since: it's a boldly fragrant wine, showing an old-vine depth and complexity, although it also reflects the chalky soils of the area in its racy structure and saline undertones.</div>
<div>Moving farther west along the Marne River, you'll find Christophe Mignon in the little hamlet of La Boulonnerie, just outside of Festigny. Mignon grows vines both in Festigny and in a village farther to the southwest, Le Breuil: he notes that the wines from Le Breuil are leaner, with a more pronounced structure, while the meunier in Festigny is rounder and fruitier. He typically blends wines from the two villages together, and while he grows a small amount of chardonnay and pinot noir, his focus is primarily on meunier, which accounts for 90 percent of his six-hectare estate. His non-vintage brut nature is pure meunier, and it's a vibrant, intensely soil-expressive wine, reflecting Mignon's dedication to quality viticulture. The vintage cuv&eacute;e is also made entirely of meunier, largely from Le Breuil, and while it's rich and ripe, it demonstrates the same energy and intensity that the non-vintage does, adding more complexity and depth.<br /><br />It's interesting to compare Mignon's wines with those of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=101" target="_blank">Jean Moutardier</a>&nbsp;in Le Breuil, despite the differences in scale and philosophy between the two houses. Moutardier's wines are all grown in the immediate vicinity of Le Breuil, in order to retain a specificity of terroir, and since 2006, the house has been making a 100-percent meunier champagne called, appropriately enough, Pure Meunier. It's released as a brut nature, and it reflects the terroir character of Le Breuil in its sleek, focused shape and stony, earthy minerality.<br /><br />Close to Festigny, in the direction of the river,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=132" target="_blank">J&eacute;r&ocirc;me Dehours</a>&nbsp;farms a 14-hectare estate based in the hamlet of Cerseuil, with vines also located in the neighboring villages of Mareuil-le-Port, Troissy and Oeuilly. Meunier accounts for 60 percent of his plantings, forming the backbone of most of his cuv&eacute;es, but he also produces several individual bottlings of meunier that are well worth seeking out. From the vineyard of Les Genevraux in Troissy, planted in 1979, Dehours makes small quantities of a vintage-dated, single-vineyard champagne. The deep tuffeau soils here are mixed with sandy clay and plenty of small stones, and the wine that they produce is energetic and tense, with pronounced mineral aromas.<br /><br />Just 150 meters away from Les Genevraux, Dehours also owns a parcel of 50-year-old meunier vines in the&nbsp;<em>lieux-dit</em>&nbsp;of La Croix Joly, a slightly warmer vineyard that's more exposed to the afternoon sun. It also lies on clay and tuffeau, with very little calcareous matter, and the wines here tend to be more overtly fruity than those of Les Genevraux, with a rounder body and richer depth. Dehours has released one vintage of La Croix Joly, the 2005, which was bottled exclusively in magnum. He has since decided to convert this parcel to the production of red wine, which is potentially even more interesting, and certainly more unusual: the first release of La Croix Joly Coteaux Champenois is the 2008.<br /><br />In addition to these two single-vineyard wines, Dehours also bottles another champagne called Blanc de Meunier, blended from various parcels of old vines across the estate. The first vintage of this cuv&eacute;e is the 2007, and like the single-vineyard champagnes, this is vinified entirely in barrel and dosed very low (3 g/l, in this case). It's a less demanding wine than the single-vineyard champagnes are, focusing more on varietal notes of apple, apricot and citrus peel rather than the intense minerality found in the other two.<br /><br />In this same vicinity, and from similar terroir, the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=28" target="_blank">B&eacute;r&egrave;che</a>&nbsp;family has also begun bottling a single-vineyard champagne from pure meunier, called Vall&eacute;e de la Marne Rive Gauche. The north-facing vineyard of Les Misy lies on calcareous clay soils in Port-&agrave;-Binson, near Mareuil-le-Port, and B&eacute;r&egrave;che's vines here were planted in 1969. The wine is fermented entirely in barrel with indigenous yeasts and without malolactic, and it's aged on cork rather than capsule for the second fermentation. All of this results in a vividly complex and piercingly mineral-expressive champagne, and it's one of the finest examples of meunier in Champagne.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.champagneguide.net/uploads/Image/bereche+rive+gauche.jpg" alt="B&eacute;r&egrave;che et Fils Vall&eacute;e de la Marne Rive Gauche" width="450" height="337" /><br /><br />On the other side of the Marne river,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=95" target="_blank">Franck Pascal</a>&nbsp;has been steadily gaining a reputation for his wines, most of which are heavily based on meunier. Pascal is a staunch advocate of biodynamic farming, and his vineyards in and around the village of Baslieux-sur-Ch&acirc;tillon have been entirely biodynamic since 2001. He typically blends his meunier with a smaller proportion of chardonnay and pinot noir, but in 2003, he made a pure meunier champagne for the first time, from a single parcel of old vines that resisted the heat of the vintage particularly well. This was called&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/wine?vineyard=95&amp;wine=454" target="_blank">Cuv&eacute;e Emeric</a>, named for Pascal's youngest son, and 2003 is the only vintage in which it was made. However, Pascal created a new vintage cuv&eacute;e in 2004 called Harmonie, which he intends to produce as a blanc de noirs: the 2004 was a blend of both pinot noir and meunier, but the 2005 was made entirely of meunier.<br /><br />In the neighboring village of Cuisles,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=147" target="_blank">C&eacute;dric Mouss&eacute;</a>&nbsp;has begun making his Sp&eacute;cial Club champagne exclusively from meunier, the first such example in the history of the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.clubtresorsdechampagne.com/" target="_blank">Club Tr&eacute;sors de Champagne</a>. The Mouss&eacute; family has been cultivating vines in the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne since 1750, and C&eacute;dric is the fourth generation of his family to produce estate-bottled champagne. He joined the Club in 2005, and began making Sp&eacute;cial Club in that vintage: it's a wine of pronounced minerality, its stony undertones contrasting the broader and more overtly clay-driven characters of many of the meuniers found on the opposite bank of the river.<br /><br />Virtually all of the most prominent Vall&eacute;e de la Marne producers are found in the area between Epernay and Dormans, which is much more heralded for its wines than are the locations farther to the west, in the&nbsp;<em>d&eacute;partement</em>&nbsp;of the Aisne. Nevertheless, in Crouttes-sur-Marne, in the far west of the Champagne appellation,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=53" target="_blank">Fran&ccedil;oise Bedel</a>&nbsp;makes densely-flavored, biodynamically-grown champagnes that have gained a steady following among fans of organic wine. About four-fifths of Bedel's 8.4 hectares of vines are planted with meunier, but like Pascal, she typically blends this with chardonnay and pinot noir. Bedel makes two terroir-specific champagnes: Dis, Vin Secret comes from limestone parcels, while Entre Ciel et Terre is grown on&nbsp;<em>argilo-calcaire</em>. Both wines are always heavily meunier-based, but the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/wine?vineyard=53&amp;wine=782" target="_blank">2002 Entre Ciel et Terre&nbsp;</a>was made entirely from meunier, and it was excellent, with a lively depth of flavor and an intensely soil-driven character.<br /><br />In the Petite Montagne, meunier's other ancestral homeland in Champagne, the variety remains an important part of production, forming the base of blends for growers such as&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=102" target="_blank">L. Aubry Fils</a>&nbsp;in Jouy-l&egrave;s-Reims,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=136" target="_blank">Roger Coulon</a>&nbsp;in Vrigny, or&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=138" target="_blank">Emmanuel Brochet</a>&nbsp;in Villers-aux-Noeuds. Yet there have been few 100-percent meunier champagnes made in this area, and none of significance until J&eacute;r&ocirc;me Pr&eacute;vost began making Les B&eacute;guines.<br /><br />In fact, other than Les B&eacute;guines, the only widely-known example of pure meunier from the Petite Montagne is Les Vignes de Vrigny, by&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=133" target="_blank">Egly-Ouriet</a>. In 2000, Francis Egly expanded his estate with the acquisition of vineyards inherited through his wife's family. This included two hectares of 40-year-old meunier vines in Vrigny, and rather than blending this fruit into his existing wines, Egly used them to create a separate cuv&eacute;e. While Les Vignes de Vrigny is recognizably an Egly wine, it differs significantly in character from his other cuv&eacute;es, as a result of its varietal makeup and its vinification exclusively in stainless steel tanks. It's a more overtly oxidative wine than Pr&eacute;vost's is, with a broad, spicy fragrance and a savory minerality.<br /><br />Just to the north of the Petite Montagne, in the Massif de St-Thierry, Alexandre Chartogne of<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=19" target="_blank">Chartogne-Taillet</a>&nbsp;is gaining a cult following for his new single-vineyard meunier, made from 50-year-old ungrafted vines in the vineyard of Les Barres. Champagnes made from ungrafted vines are rare, since phylloxera thrives in calcareous soils&mdash;in Les Barres, however, the topsoils are very sandy, preventing phylloxera from spreading.<br /><br />Chartogne first bottled Les Barres in 2006, and has continued to make it in each vintage since. As with the meuniers of the Petite Montagne, Les Barres is more overtly chalky and more linear in build than its counterparts in the Vall&eacute;e de la Marne, reflecting the differences in both soil type and climate between the two areas. It's uncommonly complex as well, not just for meunier, but for any champagne, and its intensity of terroir expression is profound.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.champagneguide.net/uploads/Image/les+barres.jpg" alt="Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres" width="450" height="338" /><br /><br />Meunier champagnes can be found in other areas of the appellation as well. In Cumi&egrave;res, a village better known for pinot noir, Vincent Laval of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=48" target="_blank">Georges Laval</a>&nbsp;had a parcel of very old meunier vines that he replanted at the end of 2006, and from their final harvest, he bottled a rich, vividly expressive champagne called Les Meuniers de la Butte. It's rather difficult to obtain as only 800 bottles were made, but it's well worth a search.<br /><br />Gilles Dumangin of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=70" target="_blank">J. Dumangin Fils</a>&nbsp;recently released a new series of champagnes called the Trio des Anc&ecirc;tres, and one of these, named for his great-grandfather Achille, is made entirely from meunier. The inaugural vintage was 2000, and it was aged for an unusually long time: one year in barrique and nine years on the lees before disgorgement. In Epernay,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=75" target="_blank">Janisson-Baradon</a>has also recently created a new trio of champagnes, with each being a single-vineyard, single-varietal wine. The meunier comes from an Epernay vineyard called Chemin des Conges, planted in 1964 and 1965, and it's a boldly assertive wine, its aromas of red fruit feeling concentrated and tense.<br /><br />Even in the Aube, where meunier is not a widely planted grape, at least one example of a pure meunier champagne can be found: in 2009,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.champagneguide.net/producers/vineyard?vineyard=57" target="_blank">Dosnon &amp; Lepage</a>&nbsp;bottled one for the first time, made from grapes grown in the sandy soils of Tranne, in the Bar-sur-Aube. The wine hasn't been released for sale yet, but early tastings have shown it to be fragrant and fruity, with the voluptuous depth typical of Aube champagnes.<br /><br />The wines mentioned above do not by any means constitute a comprehensive list of 100-percent meunier champagnes, and you may encounter examples from producers such as Arlaux, Baron Fuent&eacute;, G&eacute;rard Loriot or Denis Salomon, among others. Today we're seeing more and more 100-percent meunier cuv&eacute;es appearing on the market, and of course meunier continues to play an important role in blends across the region. What is significant and exciting is that there is a growing and genuine interest in meunier among champagne producers, with an increasing number of people acknowledging that it can create fine wines if treated with care, and it's likely that we're only beginning to see the potential of this underrated variety.<br /><br />February 2013</div>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>2012 Vintage Field Reports</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/2/17/2012-vintage-field-reports.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/2/17/2012-vintage-field-reports.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2013-02-18T03:04:14Z</published><updated>2013-02-18T03:04:14Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<div id="_mcePaste" style="font-size: 140%;">2012 was a difficult growing season; fraught with unpredictable weather. Yet, with careful attention and know-how, a vintage of grand results. Here are some first hand accounts of the 2012 year in the vines direct from our producers in Bordeaux, the Southwest, Champagne and Chablis.......</div>
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<p><strong><span>Marie Vincent-Rochet, Chateau du Grand Bos,&nbsp;<em>Graves</em></span></strong></p>
<p><span>The 2011/12 growing season had been particularly contrary : along the start of the season the vegetative cycle was quite disturbed by cold and rain ; in September it came to a close after a prolonged period of dryness.</span></p>
<p><span>Extrememe frosts in February, with temperatures decending to -10&deg;C, and a very rainy spring, resulted in an uneven flowering. The growing season saw normal rainfall only until the 14th of July ; the second half of July, all of August and beginning of September had very little precipitation, except for isolated rains on July 26th and August 15th. This period of 8 or so weeks without rain in mid to late summer were favorable conditions for the maturation of the grapes. The harvest of Sauvignons gris and blanc on the 7th of September attest to that. It was necessary however to wait a bit longer for the reds to mature and choose a harvest date sufficiently late enough achieve the necessary technical and phenolic maturation, and at the same time avoid the first rains and the onset of harmful botrytis. This will be an impact on the quality of wines from this vintage at properties that were less vigilant during this period.</span></p>
<p><span>Harvesting required much attention and careful selection in the vines ; in the end the quality was very good, even though of fairly low yield. The whites should be of a comparable quality to 2011 with aromatic richness, roundness of texture and a lovely typicity of varieties. The red wines evidence a success that we dared not hope for ! The merlots are deeply colored, round, with beautiful scents of ripe fruits. The cabernets-sauvignons are also concentrated in color, with a nose of red fruits and notes of pepper.</span></p>
<p><span>In this vintage of all possible excesses, our chateaux Grand Bos achieved wines which are at once lush, aromatic and &nbsp;persistant, that will undoubtedly be approachable young but will also keep for many years.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>Thus the 2012 growing season, which ended in a successful and happy harvest which will result in very good wines.&nbsp;</span></p>
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<p><strong>Mathieu Vieules, Domaine Philemon, <em>Gaillac</em></strong></p>
<p>In spite of a difficult growing year on a climactic level (a very cold winter, rainy spring), &nbsp;the health of the vines was exceptionally well maintained, thanks to sustained organic treatments in May and June.</p>
<p>Unlike 2011, the vines suffered less from drought in August and September due to plowing of the topsoil and important water reserves maintained in the soils.&nbsp;During the harvest in September, favorable weather conditions guaranteed a crop of good quality fruit.</p>
<p>The 2012 crop is one of very healthy and quite large berries in spite of a dry season, with good fruit on the palate and an appropriate concentration of tannins. Alcohol levels in the cellar average 13% (levels were 14% in 2010 and 2011).</p>
<p>Le Perl&eacute; 2012 is a blend of 3 Gallic varieties : 40%: Muscadelle, 40% Loin de L'oeil et 20% Mauzac, this last grape adding a bit more freshness and complexity. In the coming years, the percentage of Mauzac (now with new vines in production) will increase in the Perl&eacute; blend.</p>
<p>La Croix d'Azal 2012, remains as always very Braucol (red fruit, cassis and menthol, all characteristic of Fer Servadou), its evolution in the cellar following its usual course&hellip;.</p>
<p>Young vines of Prunelard will be in production for the September 2014 harvest.</p>
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<p><span><strong>Bernard Dumont, Champagne Dumont Pere et Fils,&nbsp;</strong><em><strong>Aube</strong></em></span></p>
<p><span>2012</span></p>
<p><span>I will always have a memory of this year of permanent contrast between unfortunate events and other truly happy ones.</span></p>
<p><span>During this campaign, our vineyards were subject to all possible aggressions : frost in winter then again in spring, a violent hail on the 7th of June, high winds, a poor fruit set in June, mildew, oidium.</span></p>
<p><span>Our long experience was put to a difficult test, and to see the grapes disappear in spite of our efforts was at times dispairing.</span></p>
<p><span>However, as have always done our predecessors before us, we must keep faith in Mother Nature. The sun returned at the start of August and stayed until harvest time, perfectly ripening the 2012 grapes. The crop, although of modest quantity, is a largely satifying one of exceptional quality, &nbsp;and worthy as a great Champagne vintage. The wines are limpid with lovely fruit notes, rich with a long finish, the result of good acidity. In March we will do the blending with the reserve wines of 2011, 2010 and 2009, to be bottled in May. Be ready, in five years time, to taste this rare vintage.</span></p>
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<p><span>The other great satifaction of this vintage, is to have welcomed more than 7,000 visitors to the Domaine, participant in the &ldquo;Route de Champagne en Fete&rdquo;, which passed through our village the first week of August: gastronomy, music, expositions, tastings&hellip;&hellip;</span></p>
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<div><strong><span>Frederic Prain, Domaine d'Elise,&nbsp;<em>Chablis</em></span></strong></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>For the 2012 vintage, to be bottled in July 2013, it&rsquo;s very early to give an opinion&hellip;..</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>All considering, this will be a very good vintage at Domaine d&rsquo;ELISE because:</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- the yields are the desirable level at 58HL/HA</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- the quality is excellent</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- very ripe (13&deg; at the end of harvest)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- no blight at the Domaine, but at many a others (mildew and oidium)!!!</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- No rot this year</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>Thus, &ldquo;on paper&rdquo; it is a very good vintage.</span></div>
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<div><strong><span>News in the vineyard :</span></strong></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>In the spring of 2013 we will have completed a replanting program at the Domaine begun in 2004; over a course of 9 years we have replanted 5 out of our total 13 plus hectares, the final &frac12; hectare to be planted next month! This project entailed a double objective: one to preserve 8 ha of old vines of recognized quality ; the other objective to create an entirely new vineyard in keeping with techniques of a modern agriculture respecful of the environment.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>I prefer to talk not about organic viticulture, but rather a return to the &ldquo;traditional methods&rdquo; ; as in the &ldquo;scraping of the soil&rdquo; (light ploughing) synonymous with abandoning chemical herbacides.&nbsp;</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>The new Chardonnay plants are of a variety better adapted to calcareous soils and produce small berries resistant to rot. The vines are pruned in the simple Guyot method (a single cane with 8/9 buds instead of two), the lowering of yields will permit, through concentration, an improvement in quality.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>Once in place, this model vineyard will allow an even more advantagous expression of the terroir.</span></div>
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<div><strong><span>Harvest, vinification and bottling :&nbsp;</span></strong></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>All good winemakers confirm: the vine makes the wine !</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>That is where the work is the most difficult. It lasts all year long and requires constant and repeated efforts.The art lies in timing, never being late, no matter what the weather, and then in good management of staff.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>The harvest always takes place relatively late, of course taking into consideration the specifics of the Domaine : a high plateau, but of favorable orientation (south/southwest).</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>We pick our grapes when they are sufficiently ripe to be rich in sugar, but never so much as to compromise that freshness that typifies Chablis.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>In the cellar the protocol will be to continue what we are doing.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>For the Petit Chablis and the Chablis, the juice is carefully vinified in stainless steel vats and matured on their fine lees for nine months. I leave the wines as untouched as possible to retain their maximum freshness : a single racking , a fining in spring and a simple filtering at bottling.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>For the Cuv&eacute;e Galil&eacute;e the grapes are the same as the Chablis, but vinification differs ; still in stainless steel but with a regular stirring of the lees. As for the 1er cru &ldquo;C&ocirc;te de L&eacute;chet&rdquo; it is vinified entirely in barrel.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>2011&nbsp;</strong>: &nbsp;This vintage began with an extremely precocious development in spring, but could not hold its rythym once summer came.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>Spring 2011 was absolutely magnificent, very hot and very dry. Some numbers : 5.2&deg; above average in April, +3,5&deg; in May and only &nbsp;88 mm of rain over 5 months, a record! As a result bud burst commenced at the very beginning of April, and by the 23rd of May the vines were in full flower.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>The emersion of the grapes was entirely beautifully magnificent but things then deteriorated : the months of July and August proved mediocre. The first signs of rot appeared the end of July : but deceptive signs!</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>So, not to panic, we got through it, approaching even the eternal &ldquo;vintage of the century&rdquo;, with the return of the sun in early September. This allowed us, inspite of everything, to gather a beautiful and plentiful crop. The harvest took place over two weeks : between the 7th and 21st of September. I tried to spread out the concentrated part of the picking to happen over several days to get optimal quality. An effort in vain though : not enough sun!</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>However the grapes in the end reached a ripeness of 12&deg; and the quality is overall good. So, by all accounts it is a correct vintage, even if, over the years, the demands on the winemaker have become insatiable!</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>2010</strong>&nbsp;: &nbsp; A great year, I have not yet bottled it&hellip;&hellip;so no use to talk about it for the moment !</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>Recent Vintages, in the cellar</strong>&nbsp;:</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>2011</strong>&nbsp;: &nbsp;Following two very beautiful vintages, the fear of seeming deceptive in describing the 2011 is clear. Happily, for fans of the Domaine, the 2011s followed a carefree path in their evolution in the cellar. It&rsquo;s a little bit the year of &ldquo;neither&hellip;.. nor&rdquo; : neither very ripe, nor very racy ! But, one can&rsquo;t always live in extremes ! These are pleasing wines of good typicity, ready to drink now while you wait for the magnificent 2012s!</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>In the wine guides&nbsp;</strong>:</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>The Domaine is listed (and very well noted!) in the two most important wine guides of France: &nbsp;</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- &nbsp;the CLASSEMENT 2013 &nbsp;DE LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>- &nbsp;the &nbsp;BETTANE &amp; DESSEAUVE 2013</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span>In England, the famous journalist Oz CLARKE classed my Petit Chablis in the 250 BEST WINES 2012 &nbsp;, I could not &nbsp;stay silent about this glorious title, England is our best market!</span></div>
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<div><strong><span>OUR CHABLIS :</span></strong></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>PETIT-CHABLIS 2011&nbsp;</strong>: &nbsp;Very &ldquo;sharp&rdquo;, citrus zest on nose, good acidity in the mouth, ending on a mineral note. Light and racy, it is ready now, to be drunk along this coming year. Try it with oysters!</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>CHABLIS 2011</strong>&nbsp;: &nbsp;His big brother! Made from riper grapes, it is more structured, with more substance and &ldquo;chew&rdquo; ! It will become expressive at the beginning of 2013. Pair with shellfish or a delicately cindered chevre.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: 90%;"><span><strong>CHABLIS 2009 &ldquo;Cuv&eacute;e Galil&eacute;e&rdquo;&nbsp;</strong>: &nbsp;Great vintage ! It is the very reflection of my terroir, a wine of rocks ! Fine, taught and very mineral, it is vinified to be aged, unlike many other 2009 which are a bit flabby. Stirring the lees (b&acirc;tonnage in stainless steel vats), which is specific to this cuv&eacute;e, enriched the wine and also prolonged its maturation process. It is a wine for connaisseurs.</span></div>
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</div>]]></content></entry><entry><title>New Producers to the Wine Traditions Portfolio</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/1/16/new-producers-to-the-wine-traditions-portfolio.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2013/1/16/new-producers-to-the-wine-traditions-portfolio.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2013-01-16T16:29:20Z</published><updated>2013-01-16T16:29:20Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>Wine Traditions is excited to announce several new producers to our portfolio.</p>
<p>We are now offering selections from the <em>Languedoc</em> from Catherine Roche's two properties <a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/mas-dalezon">Mas d'Alezon</a>&nbsp;in Faugeres and <a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-de-clovallon">Domaine Clovallon</a> in the Vall&eacute;e de l'Orb, from Le Bouc a Trois Pattes&nbsp;in the Haute Vall&eacute;e de l'Orb and from Thierry Forestier of&nbsp;Domaine <a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/mont-de-marie/">Mont de Marie<strong>&nbsp;</strong></a>in Souvignargues in the eastern Coteaux de Languedoc.</p>
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<p>In <em>Beaujolais</em> we welcome <a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-du-cret-de-bine/">Domaine du Cret de Bine</a> making wine in Sarcey the southern part of of the appellation and <a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-foretal">Domaine Foretal</a> in the commune of Vauxrenard in the heart of Upper Beaujolais. And in neighboring <em>Maconnais</em> <a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-les-grands-crays/">Domaine les Grands Crays in Vir&eacute;-Cless&eacute;</a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-romuald-petit">Romuald Petit</a> making Bourgogne Chardonnay in Saint-V&eacute;rand.</p>
<p>Find out more about these producers and their wines on their own pages on this site!</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-de-clovallon"></a></strong> <strong><a href="http://www.winetraditions.com/domaine-de-clovallon"></a></strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Wine Traditions Bordeaux Seminar is kicking off the new season @ Charlestown Wine &amp; Spirits in Rhode Island</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/9/5/wine-traditions-bordeaux-seminar-is-kicking-off-the-new-seas.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/9/5/wine-traditions-bordeaux-seminar-is-kicking-off-the-new-seas.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2012-09-05T22:01:16Z</published><updated>2012-09-05T22:01:16Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;<span style="font-size: 130%;">click this link to reserve your spot! <a href="http://myemail.constantcontact.com/Bordeaux-Seminar--Pumpkin-Beers--and-Cheese-.html?soid=1103806466865&amp;aid=-divfQy77qw">http://myemail.constantcontact.com/Bordeaux-Seminar--Pumpkin-Beers--and-Cheese-.html?soid=1103806466865&amp;aid=-divfQy77qw</a>&nbsp;</span></p>
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<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 200%;">News from&nbsp;Charlestown Wine &amp; Spirits &nbsp;</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 200%;">Our Fall Wine Seminar Series Begins&nbsp;</span></p>
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<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 150%;">When: &nbsp;Friday, September 14th at 7PM</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 150%;">Who: &nbsp;Ed Addiss of Wine Traditions</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 150%;">What: Bordeaux</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 140%;">We are very excited to welcome back Ed Addiss of Wine Traditions, whose portfolio of French wines are some of the most unique, traditional, interesting wines. &nbsp;And they're great values. &nbsp;Before Ed carried so many wines from the Loire and Southwest of France, he was known for his great Bordeaux portfolio. &nbsp;It will be these wines that we'll focus on this evening. &nbsp;This promises to be a greatly informative seminar on a region that many people are interested in. &nbsp;The cost is free, but this event will fill up quickly, so reserve your place to insure a spot.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 200%;">&nbsp;</span></p>
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<div></div>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Join us @ Chez Pascal's new Wurst Kitchen in Providence Monday, September 17th!</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/8/30/join-us-chez-pascals-new-wurst-kitchen-in-providence-monday.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/8/30/join-us-chez-pascals-new-wurst-kitchen-in-providence-monday.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2012-08-30T16:02:56Z</published><updated>2012-08-30T16:02:56Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p><span style="font-size: 250%;">Chez Pascal presents:</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 250%;">Wurst Wine Tasting</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 250%;">Monday, September 17</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 250%;">6:00pm - 8:00pm</span></p>
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<p><em>ed &amp; barbara.</em></p>
<p><em>we anxiously await</em></p>
<p><em>their arrival.</em></p>
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<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">In&nbsp;collaboration with our friends at <strong>Campus Wines</strong>, this will be a fun, casual, mingle about, wine sipping, wurst nibbling evening. We will be trying 5 fantastic wines from one&nbsp;of our favorite importers.&nbsp; If you have been to a few of our wine events&nbsp;before you will remember Barbara &amp; Ed of&nbsp;</span><span>Wine Traditions and their wealth of information and unique and wonderful wines.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Come, mingle, taste wine and enjoy some of&nbsp;our new wurst offerings out of the Wurst Kitchen.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">The tasting will be held in our Wurst Kitchen</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">&amp; side dining room.</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Wines we will&nbsp;be tasting:</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Domaine du Pas Saint Martin, La Vie en Rose, sparkling</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Domaine Brana, Harri Gorri, Irouleguy Rose</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Domaine Grosbot-Barbara, La Vreladiere, Saint Pourcin Blanc</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Domaine Grosbot-Barbara, Chambre d'Edouard, Saint Pourcin Rouge&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Domaine Philemon, La Croix de la Bouscarie, Gaillac Rouge</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">The price is $45 per person and this <strong>INCLUDES</strong> the wine, hors d'oeuvres from the Wurst Kitchen, tax and gratuity!&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 110%;">Please call <strong>Chez Pascal</strong> for reservations.&nbsp; Payment for this event will be taken in advance with a credit card, non refundable but you can certainly pass your reservation on to a friend.</span></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Encore! New 2011 Rosé arrivals</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/6/29/encore-new-2011-rose-arrivals.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/6/29/encore-new-2011-rose-arrivals.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2012-06-30T03:32:00Z</published><updated>2012-06-30T03:32:00Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p><span class="full-image-inline ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 450px;" src="http://www.winetraditions.com/storage/ETI VINTAGE 109X62-3.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1341029605407" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>Domaine Laurent Gauthier Beaujolais-Villages Ros&eacute; 2011......As Belle Epoque as you could hope for ; gamay redolent and fruity with wild strawberries ; vibrant, fresh and deep pink as a newly blossomed rose in morning......</p>
<p>An apperitif for pure enjoyment ; paired well w/ rillettes and pat&eacute;s w/ cornichons, saucissons secs, artichokes and grilled summer squashes and eggplant. Steak Tartare!</p>
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<p>Chateau du Bloy Bergerac Ros&eacute; 2011....100% Cabernet Franc, a delicate pale color - &nbsp;between partridge eye and pale salmon. Mineral, linear and focused like whites from the region, graced by a brush of lushness from Cabernet Franc. This articulate wine edges well into high-toned dishes of spring and summer - composed salads, asparagus and peas and radishes and corn, vegetable risottos, high-season stripped bass, tuna. Crab cakes and lobster! A Mediterranean lamb stew simmered w/ cinnamon and cumin with rice. Milder washed rind cheeses.</p>
<p>This is a cook's ros&eacute;.&nbsp;</p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Lovely Accolades for Domaine Rois Mages in the French Press</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/6/21/lovely-accolades-for-domaine-rois-mages-in-the-french-press.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/6/21/lovely-accolades-for-domaine-rois-mages-in-the-french-press.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2012-06-21T23:26:21Z</published><updated>2012-06-21T23:26:21Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>In their 2012 releases, the Guides Hachette des Vins, Bettane &amp; Desseauve des Vins de France and Dussert-Gerber des Vins publish high praises for Anne-Sophie Debavelaere's Bouzeron and Rully "Les Cailloux" White and Red!</p>
<p><span>Hachette says:</span></p>
<p><span><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Rully Les Cailloux 2008 White.</span> This cuvee, coming from an incredibly rocky soil, breathes the minerality of its terroir matched with supple notes of ripe fruit. On the palate it begins fresh and delicate, then gives place to a rich and ardent wine of substance.</span></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Rully Les Cailloux 2009 Red</span>. Notable for its aromatic harmony, allying red fruits with forest floor and vanilla to more animal notes.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Bouzeron 2009.</span> Of a beautiful gold color tinged with delicate green....a discreet nose which opens to notes of freshly cut grass, so characteristic of Aligote. The palate is floral, vibrant and fresh. A balanced, pleasing wine, perfect for rabbit terrine with tarragon.</p>
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<p><br /><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 750px;" src="http://www.winetraditions.com/storage/GUIDES%202012.pdf?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1340321270629" alt="" /></span></span></p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Menotomy Wine Club features Wine Traditions this month</title><id>http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/6/8/menotomy-wine-club-features-wine-traditions-this-month.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.winetraditions.com/news/2012/6/8/menotomy-wine-club-features-wine-traditions-this-month.html"/><author><name>Wine Traditions</name></author><published>2012-06-08T13:29:28Z</published><updated>2012-06-08T13:29:28Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>Mary @ Menotomy Beer and Wine in Arlington, Massachusetts has chosen four of our wines from the Loire for her wine club this month. Link here to the newsletter to see Mary's food pairings and printable recipes......</p>
<p><a href="http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?llr=zb9p6ncab&amp;v=001IKsgF__Br-oxRY4A87u29NZc4xsapanuy2C0_GliVvqh-hu0egHcswr4ft6PhiSEZbBeg7hQYHoorPSJM1ZVnYeYRxBwqlw808tVVMd_KDRLOl-kVGHpqg%3D%3D">http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?llr=zb9p6ncab&amp;v=001IKsgF__Br-oxRY4A87u29NZc4xsapanuy2C0_GliVvqh-hu0egHcswr4ft6PhiSEZbBeg7hQYHoorPSJM1ZVnYeYRxBwqlw808tVVMd_KDRLOl-kVGHpqg%3D%3D</a></p>]]></content></entry></feed>